Any restaurant named for the signature Thai soup tom yum koong had better deliver a good one. Thankfully, this popular little Hasbrouck Heights corner spot lives up to its name: Its chef-owner simmers lemongrass, lime leaves, chili paste and two big shrimp into a soothing, searing soup that’s a serious sinus opener and a bargain, too, at $4.95.
A steady stream of customers sit on ivory banquettes and dig into heaping noodle dishes and fragrant curries in Tom Yum Koong’s soothing dining room, covered in brick and dark wood, with accents of Thai artwork in red and gold. I’m grateful to those customers who recently sent me emails expressing their love for Tom Yum Koong, because this four-year-old neighborhood gem might otherwise have escaped my radar. And that would have been a shame, for its flavors reach higher and fresher than many of its competitors, even when some dishes don’t measure up.
Bangkok natives Chumpol and Somrutai Nuamwaew, known to most customers as Jeff and Ann, already had a busy restaurant by the same name in Cliffside Park when they happened to drive through Hasbrouck Heights and saw the available spot across from the municipal complex. Their second location became so popular that two years ago, they closed the Cliffside Park location and put all of their effort into this 25-seat restaurant. It’s small, with some welcome touches: Chopsticks are presented in individual braided baskets and water flows down a tall mirror in the corner.
Tom Yum Koong **½
305 Boulevard, Hasbrouck Heights
201-288-3840
Food: Lively traditional Thai dishes.
Ambience: Small, pretty corner restaurant off main street.
Service: Low-key; generally knowledgeable enough for newcomers.
